Warning: water in pipes is transported under pressure. This post is to give insight into how I built a water system, but be sure to consult an expert prior construction. Full Disclaimer
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The goal of this project was to prove out the ability to transport water into a hunting camp in absence of a well for the purpose of showering and cleaning game. Success was judged by the systems ability to satisfy the the following:
- Enable the long-term storage of 150+ gallons of non-potable water
- Allow the pumping of water to various locations within hunting camp
- Facilitate the attachment of a hot water heater, faucets, hoses, or other common component
- Facilitate the refilling of the main tank in 50 gallon increments via a blue barrel brought into camp
- Utilize a single pump for both the usage of the system as well as the transfer of the water
Special thanks to members of TexasBowhunter for the ideas that inspired this approach.
Building the Basic System
Connecting the Storage Tank to the Pump
Materials Needed
- Water Storage Tank (150+ Gallons)
- Shallow Well Pump
- 1” PVC Pipe
- 1” Tee (Slip)
- 1” 45-Degree Elbow Fitting (Slip)
- 1” In-Line Check Valve (Slip)
- 1” Ball Valve (Slip)
- 1” 90-Degree Elbow (Slip)
- 2” Plastic Hub x 2” Flexible PVC Coupling
- 1” x 1” MPT to Slip Male Adapter
- 1” Threaded Coupling Conduit Fitting
- FNPT Hose Bibb
The configuration of pipe varies with the arrangement of the tank and pump. The goal is simple: connect the storage tank to the shallow well pump intake, ideally using the straightest line possible i.e. try to avoid 90 degree turns when possible.
The pipe and fittings used were rated for cold water transport under pressure and PVC pipe sealant was used on any threaded connections.
Step 1: Connect the Storage Tank
Using a flexible plastic hub, I connected the storage tank to a slip fitting that accommodated 1″ PVC pipe. Though the storage tank had an integrated valve, I chose to add an inline ball valve to easily turn the flow of water off from the tank.
Step 2: Attach the Drain Valve
Just past the inline ball valve, attach a Tee connection that will enable the attachment of drain valve.
The drain valve I used a simple hose bibb attached with a 1″ threaded conduit fitting. This valve ideally will sit at the lowest point of the water system and will come in handy if you want to use the well pump for refilling the system as well.
Step 3: Attach the Check Valve
On the other side of the Tee connection, you will want to include an inline check valve. The check valve is critical for preventing water flowing backwards through the system causing water hammer and potentially burning out your pump prematurely.
Step 4: Attach Shallow Well Pump
Once the check valve is attached, simply extend the pipe and attach to the intake side of the shallow well pump using a 1″ slip to MPT threaded fitting.
This will complete the attachment of the storage tank to the shallow well pump.
Building the Distribution System
With the storage system now connected to the pump, this section focuses on assembling the system on the output-side of the shallow well pump.
There is a lot of room for variation here, but the system documented here, includes a small, electric water heater, which is why you see both a hot and cold manifold pictured.
Materials Needed
- 1/2″ PEX
- 3/4″ PEX
- 1/2-in Push-to-Connect Brass Multi Turn Hose Bibb
- 1” x 1” MPT to Slip Male Adapter
- 3/4” x 1” MPT x Slip Reducer Male Adapter
- 3/4 in. Brass PEX Barb x Female Threaded Adapter
- Brass 3/4-in PEX Barb Ball Valve
- 4-port Copper Manifold with 1/2″ PEX Valves, 3/4″ PEX x Open
- 4-port Copper Manifold with 1/2″ PEX Valves, 3/4″ PEX x Closed
- Thermal Expansion Tank
Step 1: Attach a PEX Adapter to the Outflow of the Pump
Similar to the intake side, attach a 1″ slip x 1″ MPT to the pump. Once secured, attach a 1″ slip x 3/4″ MPT thread fitting to allow the attachment of the Brass PEX Barb x Female Threaded Adapter.
Step 2: Attach PEX to Open Manifold
Using a cold, 3/4″ PEX line, run PEX from the pump to the open PEX manifold.
Step 3: Attach Ball Valve
For ease of turning off water flow to the hot water-side, a 3/4″ ball valve was installed.
Step 4: Install Thermal Expansion Tank
To prevent pressure building up and protect the water heater, I installed a thermal expansion tank. For further details, consult an expert.
Step 5: Attach Water Lines to the Water Heater
Using PEX attachments, attach the cold water to the intake side of the water heater and 3/4″ Hot PEX to the output side.
Step 6: Run the Hot Water Line to the Closed PEX Manifold
The 3/4″ hot water line can then be attached to the 3/4″ closed PEX manifold.
Step 7: Run individual hot and cold lines
With the water system connected, run individual pex lines out of the manifolds for cold and hot water needs. The picture below demonstrates the running of a cold water line to a hose bibb which will come in handy for the refill system.
Step 8: Test Run
Start the system by opening the valve from the main tank, following the priming instructions on the pump, opening the line on the manifold and calling for water e.g. turning on the hose.
Refilling the System
The refilling of the system is my favorite part of the design…rather than using a transfer pump, the existing shallow well pump can be used to refill the main tank.
The premise of the refilling system is to attach a wand to the drain side of the system that will be placed in an alternative source of water.
The drain side will be opened as the valve to the tank is closed to ensure the alternative source of water is tapped. A hose can then be connected to a faucet on the system and the end of the hose placed into the main tank.
Once the hose is turned on, water will be sucked through the drain side all the way through the pump and out the other hose, which empties into the tank.
Materials Needed
- 50 Gallon Blue Barrel
- 3/4” PVC Drip Irrigation Male Adapter
- 3/4” PVC Pipe
- Garden Hose of various length with adapters
Step 1: Create “wand” out of PVC
Cut a wand from 3/4″ PVC long enough to easily fit to the bottom of a 50 gallon blue barrel. Cut the bottom of the wand at an angle to prevent it suctioning to the bottom of the barrel during filling.
The blue barrel can be loaded into the back of a pickup truck, filled with water and backed close to the storage tank.
Step 2: Attach the “wand” to a standard garden hose
Using a 3/4″ Drip Irrigation Male Adapter with a slip end, attach the want to the hose.
I actually used a 1″ adapter, but its hard to find 1″ with the proper threading so I heated the fitting and screwed in to make an air tight seal
Step 3: Attach the “wand” hose to the drain valve
Attach the wand hose to the drain valve and place the wand into the blue barrel.
Step 4: Attach an additional hose to an exterior faucet
Attach an additional hose to an exterior faucet (remember the PEX faucet that is close to the tank), and place the hose into the main storage tank
Step 5: Start the Water Transfer
Its important to ensure the pump remains primed. Turn on the exterior faucet to start pumping water from the main tank back into its self.
Open up the drainage valve attached to the wand in the blue barrell to begin pulling water from both sources.
Slowly, close the ball valve from the main tank to exclusively draw from the alternative source. If the pump acts like it is starved for water, open the main tank valve slightly until you have good draw from the alternative source.
Step 6: Transition Back to Main Tank
Open the main tank valve when the alternative source is drained and then close all valves. Your tank is now refilled.
Summary
Access to well water isn’t always available or economical. Running water in camp goes a long way, whether you’re trying to quickly clean a hog in the Texas heat or grabbing a warm shower before you head out for another all day December sit.