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DIY: Transform Grandpa’s Golf Cart Into a Hunting/Fishing Buggy

Warning: working with batteries and lifting a cart are dangerous activities. This post is to give insight into how I remodeled my golf cart, but be sure to consult an expert prior attempting on your own. Full Disclaimer

I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. If you purchase something using a link to an item on a post, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. Read More

Planning the Build

Shortly after my parents bought a rural property for the purpose of hunting and fishing, I started dreaming of having a “hunting buggy” to cart the family around on our various outings.

My list of “wants” included:

  • Minimal noise (aka electric)
  • Room for five
  • High-torque for steep terrain
  • Good ground clearance for washed out roads
  • Aesthetically pleasing (this is my wife’s requirement as she wanted to cart the kids around the neighborhood in it)

What I quickly learned was the best way to get what I want was to build it myself. The ability to pick the parts I needed not only assured the cart checked all the boxes above, but it also allowed me to keep costs lower by doing the labor or buying higher quality parts than a dealer would provide.

Finding a Diamond in the Rough

When I set out looking for a cart, I didn’t care if it was running or not. After a lot of research plans, my plans would leave little stock left other than the frame. Newer model EZ-GOs and Club Cars were not going to fit the bill as the price was to cost prohibitive.

I had narrowed my search down to an EZ-GO TXT or a late model Club Car DS. The latter was more appealing as it has an aluminum frame and the rust would be non-existent. Thanks to a friendly-farmer on Craiglist, I finally had my cart, a 2006 Club Car DS…a cart my wife doubtingly looked at and called “an old man golf cart”.

Full Phased Remodel Plans

Phase 1: Clean Up and Repair

Before starting any upgrades I set about making sure the frame was in good shape.

Battery tray in need or replacement

On my particular cart, the battery trays were paper-thin from leaking battery acid. I wanted to replace them so a problem didn’t surface down the road.

I don’t have a rig setup to weld aluminum, so the fix described does not require welding…only a rivet gun.

I should note I had an issue with throttle as well, but it is not a common issue to highlight here. The high-level summary is the throttle was full of dust so a strategically placed hole, some QD Electronic Cleaner and some marine goop addressed the issue of erratic throttling.

Materials Needed

Step 1: Remove the compromised battery trays

This step is pretty simple. The main frame is extremely thick and likely will be fine. Grab two large sets of Channel-lock Pliers, firmly grip the angle iron near the welds and pry it up. The weld should just pop.

Step 2: Measure and cut replacement trays

Simply measure the span you need to replace and cut down your 1 1/2″ Aluminum angle.

Step 3: Cut Battery Tie-down Holes

Using the removed angle as a template, cut holes to match where the battery tie-downs will connect to the aluminum angle once attached.

Step 4: Install the New Trays

Clamp the new aluminum angle in place, drill the hole for your pop rivet and install. Trays are just like new!

Phase 2: Motor and Battery Upgrade

The second phase of the rebuild would be the most costly, but also the biggest jump in terms of performance: replacing the electric motor.

The instruction here is going to be fairly high-level as your build is going to be very much tailored to your cart model. I’d suggest joining BuggiesGoneWild, a forum for golf cart enthusiasts, to lurk on the DIY threads and when you are ready to buy, reach out to David Hicks at Revolution Golf Carts. David will get you setup and I believe he ships anywhere in the US.

After talking with David, he set me up with the materials below sans the batteries. Keep in mind, I was after torque…many folks are after speed (which my motor has plenty of), but it shines on pulling hills…in the words of David “this motor will pull the gates off of hell”.

The high-level goal here is getting a high torque motor on your cart. To run that high torque motor, you need a speed controller that can take advantage of that motor. To handle the extra amps in the system, you need to upgrade every component: motor, controller, solenoid and battery cables.

Materials Needed

Step 1: Place the cart in TOW

You should do this anytime you work on the electrical components of the cart.

Step 2: Remove the batteries

Snap a picture of the battery configuration and cables. Pull all the cables and lift the batteries out. Toss the cables, you are going to use the heavy duty, 2ga cables in their place.

Tip: Get a battery lifting strap. They make this much easier.

Step 3: Remove the cart body

The motor cannot be removed easily (if at all) with the body still on…remove the entire rear body of the cart.

Step 4: Remove the stock controller

The controller is located behind the drivers seat. You will notice a small black box where many wires terminate…that is the controller. Remove the cover, snap a picture and remove it.

Step 5: Remove the solenoid

The solenoid is the small component with a jumper wire going across it. Snap a picture and remove it.

Step 6: Remove the stock motor

Snap a picture of the wire configuration and remove the motor. Depending on the age of your motor, it could be seized up on the spindle. It may take a few light taps of a rubber mallet to jar it free.

Be gentle though, all of these parts have value on the used market to recoup some of your investment.

Step 7: Clean and grease the spindle

Clean the build up off the spindle and lightly lubricate with some white lithium grease.

Step 8: Install and secure the new motor

Go ahead and install the new motor and secure with the existing hardware

Step 9: Determine location for controller and solenoid

This is the back of the panel where the nuts will be installed to mount the controller.

Before you can install the controller and solenoid, you need to identify a location for them. I chose to drill into the aluminum where the stock components were previously installed.

Use the controller and solenoid as a template and drill your holes.

Step 10: Mount and connect the controller

Using the holes you just drilled, mount using the appropriate hardware for your arrangement. Connect using the provided instructions for your cart model.

Step 11: Mount and connect the solenoid and diode

Using the holes you just drilled, mount using the appropriate hardware for your arrangement. Connect using the provided instructions for your cart model.

Step 12: Connect the motor

With the solenoid and controller connected, connect the motor based on the provided instructions for your cart. In my case, given the size of the A4 motor, I had to drop the rear axle to complete the install.

Step 13: Install batteries and battery cables

The final step is to insert the new Ranger 160 batteries and hook up the heavy duty battery cables using the same pattern from before (and adding in the new 500amp fuse to the positive ending side of the battery pack.

Note: if you are not phasing your cart and already have the light upgrade kit, now would be an easy time to go ahead and install your step down voltage reducer (see Phase 5).

If your used cart was like mine, the previous owner installed lights but was running them off a single battery. This is a bad idea as it drains one battery at a faster rate than the others.

Step 14: Dial-in Your Controller

The Alltrax controller is fully customizable and the acceleration and torque profile can be dialed in to your specific needs. Connect with USB to a computer and tweak away!

Phase 3: Suspension Upgrade

With everything under the “hood” upgraded, I now set out to do some suspension work to put that torque to good use…I’m talking offroad tires and ground clearance.

Out of all the modifications, I found the lifting the rear to be one of the more frustrating endeavors, but with patience, you can knock it out.

That being said, I did not thoroughly document in pictures how I accomplished this task as there was ALOT of pre-existing material here that is quite nuanced given your cart model.

Tools required may vary here, but this project is a good excuse to get an automotive jack, jack stands and some good snap-ring pliers if you don’t have them already.

In addition to the breakdown below, I’m attaching the two best sources I found for this install:

Front-end Install

Materials Needed
Step 1: Remove the front bumper and cowl

This step is purely to gain access to the front suspension of the cart

Step 2: Remove the front tires

Before removing the tires, you will want to lift the cart and place it on jack stands.

Step 3: Remove the front hubs

On my particular model, there is a black plastic hub cap that can be removed to access the nut holding on the the hub. Remove the cap and hub on both sides of the vehicle.

Step 4: Remove the nuts from the spring and spindle bolts

Before removing the spindle, remove the nuts attaching the spindle bolts and spindle spring. Don’t lose these, you will need them again.

Step 5: Remove tie rods and rack and pinion from the passenger-side spindle

Remove the tie-rods on both sides of the vehicle. On the passenger side, loosen and remove the nuts holding the rack and pinion as well.

If the boots are heavily worn, you may consider replacing these.

Step 6: Remove the spindle on each side of the cart

With all the attached hardware removed, you can now remove the spindles on each side of the cart.

Step 7: Remove the A-Arms

The A-Arms are held on by two bolts per arm. Remove both bolts and the A-Arms.

Step 8: Remove the front leaf spring

The spring is attached using a plate. Remove the plate and all 4 bolts to remove the spring. Keep the hardware.

Step 9: Attach the lift kit

Using an automotive jack, ease the lift up to where you remove the leaf spring plate and secure with four bolts. Don’t tighten everything down until you ensure all four bolts are aligned.

Step 10: Attach the new A-Arms

Using the retained hardware, install the new A-Arms.

Step 11: Attach the spindle

Attach the spindles, shocks and tie rods to both sides of the lift. On the passenger-side, attach the rack and pinion (and castle nut).

Step 12: Attach the hubs

Reattach the hubs and dust caps

Step 13: Reinstall the cowl and wheels

Install the cowl and new larger wheels!

Change the Differential Oil

If its an older cart, I would go ahead and change the differential oil. Its a fairly easy task.

Materials Needed
  • Differential Oil
Step 1: Drain Differential Oil

Begin by placing a pan under the differential and remove the drain plug. To speed up the process, you can loosen the fill plug. Once drained, tighten the drain plug.

Step 2: Fill with clean differential oil

Remove the fill plug and fill with 1L of oil (or until oil runs out of the fill plug. Tighten the fill plug.

Rear-end Install

Prior to lifting the rear-end, I would thoroughly read the posts from David Hicks here. Even with this instruction, the install is up to a bit of interpretation. Just be careful as the axle will want to turn when no longer secured under the weight of the motor.

The most difficult part of the install is executing “the flip” which involves flipping the brake assemblies to gain additional travel distance for the brake cables.

Materials Needed
Step 1: Remove the rear body

Remove the body on the rear of the cart to easily access the back suspension.

Step 2: Remove rear tires

With the jack under the axle, lift the rear of the cart and place on jack stands. Remove the tires.

Step 3: Remove the hubs

Ensure the brakes are off, and remove the hubs.

Step 4: Remove the nuts on the shock and U-bolts on passenger-side

Completely loosen the U-bolts and shock to free the brake plate that will needed to be altered to install the lift.

Step 5: Remove snap ring attaching brake cable to plate

The snap-ring is the only piece holding the brake plate once the U-bolts and shock are removed.

Step 6: Install the new U-Bolts and plate

This is a temporary measure to hold the axle in place when we remove the brake plate from the driver-side axle. If you don’t resecure the plate, the axle will want to spin.

Step 7: Remove nuts on U-bolt and shock on driver-side

Repeat steps 4 and 5 on the driver-side

Step 8: Modify the stock brake plates removed from the driver-side and passenger-side

Using a bandsaw or hacksaw, cut the extended tabs off the brake plates. Enlarge the center hole of the plate to 1/2” using a step-up bit.

Step 9: Remove driver-side leaf-spring

Start by loosening the leaf-spring bolt where it connects behind the hub. Once detached, remove the bolt attaching the leaf-spring at the rear of the cart.

Step 10: Install a 5/16″ x 1″ bolt in the center of the driver-side square plate provided with the new lift

The installation of this bolt will allow the plate to marry up with the other components lifting the rear axle.

You will need to follow this same process later once the other plate is removed that is temporarily securing the axle on the passenger-side.

Step 11: Switch the driver and passenger-side axle shafts
Driver-side
Passenger-side

Using 90-degree snap-ring pliers, remove the c-clip holding the axle shaft on both sides of the cart. Pull out the shafts and switch them.

This part can be a bit confusing, but here is a great video of the axle shaft being removed.

Step 12: Install the heavy-duty leaf spring on the driver’s side

Grease and install the new bushings and sleeves. Attach the heavy-duty leaf spring.

Step 13: Tighten the lift block stack on the driver’s side

Stack the components in the following top-down order:

  • U-Bolts
  • Top Lift Square Plate
  • Heavy-Duty Leaf-Spring
  • “Flipped” Factor Brake Plate
  • Axle
  • Bottom Lift Square Plate

Install the shock with the include bushings at the top and bottom attachment points. The stems on the new shocks are longer than the stock so use this opportunity of the axle being disconnected to fit the shock into place.

Step 14: Tighten the new shock on the driver’s side
Step 15: Reattach and adjust brakes

Loosen the brakes using the brake tensioner and reattach the brake line to the brake plate.

A video showing Club Car DS brake adjustments can be seen here.

Step 16: Loosen the temporary plate on the passenger-side

Once the driver-side is installed, you can now support and adjust the passenger-side to remove the square plate temporarily holding the passenger-side axle in place.

Step 17: Repeat steps 9-10 and step 12-15 on the passenger-side
Step 18: Re-install hubs

Slide the hub onto the axle shaft. They should slide on easily. Once installed, pump the brakes to adjust brake tension.

Step 19: Re-install rear tires

Phase 4: Exterior and Body Upgrade

On the home stretch, phase 4 is where your buggy is going to start to look like it belongs on the showroom floor.

If the suspension was the most frustrating, I would have to say the wrapping is the most nerve-wracking. Give yourself a little bit of time to get use to working with the material and you will find your groove.

Wrap and Paint the Body and Trim

This was my first attempt at wrapping anything. For a Club Car DS, I would suggest watching this video of a cart being wrapped with the playback setting on as low as you can bear, to watch how a professional works.

Materials Needed
Step 1: Remove all obstructions and hardware

To expose the body of the cart, remove all hardware and plastics.

Step 2: Prime all bare metal trim

Using a self-etching primer, paint all bare metal areas of the trim

Step 3: Paint trim black

Using a black bedliner, paint all trim black

Step 4: Paint the front roof supports

My front roof support was bad shape so I painted it to match the trim.

Step 5: Repair major gouges and scratches

With a busy wrap like RealTree Edge camouflage, I learned this is not absolutely necessary. If you are a perfectionist like me, fill the gougles and holes with JB Weld Plastic Filler and sand smooth. Work up to 1000grit to ensure a smooth surface to adhere to.

Step 6: Remove the front emblem

Using a heat gun, heat the front emblem and remove it. Remove any residue with Goo Gone.

Step 7: Clean and degrease the cart body

Using the RapidTac Surface Prep, thoroughly degrease and clean the cart body

Step 8: Wipe down the body with alcohol

Remove any remaining residue with alcohol on a lint free rag. You will want to continue to do this throughout the process.

Step 9: Prime Problematic Curves and Bare Areas

I chose to use 3M Primer 94 to try to promote more adhesion on bare areas as I noticed the vinyl didn’t want to stick as well. The closer the areas are to an edge, the more likely you will need to prime.

Step 10: Install a small piece of vinyl on the front cowl

Install a small rectangle of vinyl on the front cowl where it meets the bumper. Please a straight line of knifeless tape at the top of the vinyl. This will be used to trim the overlap of the largest section covering the cowl.

Step 11: Install a large sheet of vinyl over the remaining cowl

Working slowly and with heat from your heat gun, install a larger sheet of vinyl over the remaining cowl.

Step 12: Install the section of vinyl behind the floor board

Position knifeless tape to cut out a clean section along the curve between the sides of the cart and the rectangular span that meets the floorboard of the cart. Cover with one continuous sheet of vinyl.

Step 13: Install section of vinyl over the top of the rear body

This will be one of the larger areas of vinyl you install. Form the outline of your vinyl section using knifeless tape running the curves of the top of the cart. Install vinyl using your heat gun.

Step 14: Install section of vinyl in bagwell

We will not be adding vinyl to the entire bagwell. You will just need one strip just where the body meets the bumper of the cart.

Step 15: Install driver-side vinyl section

On the passenger-side of the cart, create the boundary of an overlapping section using knifeless tape. Install a span of vinyl overlapping all existing seams and wrapping around to the taillight.

Step 16: Repeat step 14 on the passenger-side
Step 17: Post heat the entire surface of the cart

Using your heat gun and a contactless thermometer pointed at the body, post heat the entire vinyl surface to 200-225 degrees to lock in the vinyl.

Replacing the Seat Vinyl

I did not want to pay for a set of seat covers so I recovered my own seats using black vinyl. This is another place where a video can go along way. I prefer the approach seen here.

Step 1: Remove the screws on the side of the bottom seat cushion

Unscrew the screws holding the plastic handls to the seat

Step 2: Remove the existing vinyl

Using a tack lifter, remove the existing staples holding the stock vinyl onto the seat

Step 3: Cut new vinyl for seat

Using the seat as a guide, cut the section of vinyl for the bottom cushion

Step 4: Staple new vinyl

Using a heat gun and a pneumatic stapler (much easier than hand stapling), work your way around the cushion, heating and stretching the vinyl until tight.

Step 5: Repeat process for back cushion

Installing the Rear Seat and Extended Roof

Materials Needed:
Step 1: Install the Rear Seat
Step 2: Install the seat belts
Step 3: Dry fit the extended roof

The universal roof has three channels that afford you some flexibility in how you choose to attach the roof.

For my install, the struts were best positioned to install to the left of the innermost channel.

Step 4: Attach front of roof
Step 5: Determine height and angle of rear roof
Step 6: Drill back struts to set rear height
Step 7: Attach rear roof
Step 8: Finish attaching front of roof

Phase 5: Electrical and Other Accessories

When I bought the golf cart, it already had a stock Club Car light kit. The issue was the original installer did not use a voltage reducer, but instead wired the lights across two batteries in the battery pack.

This led to the lights running off of 16v instead of 12v and also draining 2 batteries at a faster rate than the others. My electrical work consisted of the following:

  • Installing a 12v voltage reducer (to equally reduce the 48v across the pack)
  • Installing green spot lights (for hog hunting and early morning entry)
  • Enabling the buzzer to work in “stealth mode”
  • Consolidating all the lights on a fused circuit
  • Activating the above mentioned features via a panel of rocker switches
  • Installing the spot lights on a bur

Wiring Summary

The entire wiring summary can be seen in the diagram below. This is not necessarily the most efficient way to wire the cart, but took advantage of the existing wiring:

Installing Voltage Reducer, Fuse Box and Rocker Switches

Materials Needed
Step 1: Place the cart in TOW

You should do this anytime you do any electrical work on the cart.

Step 2: Install the Voltage Reducer

Using hardware available, install the voltage reducer. I chose to install mine in the battery bay, on the opposite end of the controller. I had to use spacers in order to have it sit flush against the frame.

Step 3: Install the Fuse Box

Using hardware available, install the fuse box. I chose to install mine under the Tow/Run switch.

Step 4: Wire B- Controller to 48v- of the Voltage Reducer

Using 14ga wire, butt connectors and ring connectors, wire the B- terminal of the controller to the voltage reducer.

Step 5: Wire positive side of fuse box to Voltage Reducer

Using –ga wire, butt connectors and ring connectors, wire the positive side of the fuse box to the 12v+ side of the voltage reducer.

Step 6: Wire negative side of fuse box to Voltage Reducer

Using —ga wire, butt connectors and ring connectors, wire the negative side of the fuse box to the 12v- side of the voltage reducer.

Step 7: Wire the ignition switch to Voltage Reducer

To enable the voltage reducer to turn on when the ignition is started, wire the voltage reducer to the on side of the ignition switch.

Step 8: Wire Positive Battery to 48+ of the Voltage Reducer

Attach a ring connector to the 48v+ attach wire of the voltage reducer.

When you attach this ring connector to the terminating positive end of the battery pack, its going to spark as the capacitors of the voltage reducer will immediately charge.

Tip: Prevent the Spark
You can prevent the spark by placing a 40-60w incandescent bulb on the positive battery post and touching the ring to the threads of the bulb for 10secs (the bulb should not light or you have a wiring problem!). Once the capacitors are charged, place the ring terminal on the post.

Step 10: Cut the existing rocker switch daisy chain

For my arrangement, I cut the daisy chain to allow two switches to receive power and be ground on the same circuit. The buzzer and spots will share a circuit while the headlights will be on a separate circuit. The halogen lights pull more amps so I wanted them separate.

Step 9: Install the rocker switches

Using the switch panel as a template, cut a place for the rocker switches in the console of the cart.

Wiring the Buzzer Switch

My desire with the switch wired to the buzzer was that it acted as a “stealth mode” i.e. I wanted the buzzer to be active by default, but when I’m out hunting, I elect to disable it…this was mostly for safety, given I wanted the buzzer for general day to day use around neighborhood kids.

To accomplish this, I had to utilize a relay. If just wired through the switch, 1) you have to ensure you aren’t sending 48v across the switch as the buzzer is wired for 48v 2) the buzzer would be disabled when the switch was off and enabled when the switch was on. I needed the opposite.

Materials Needed
Step 1: Place the cart in TOW
Step 2: Wire the load of the controlling switch (pin #3) to #86 of the relay
Step 3: Wire #85 of the relay to your negative bus
Step 4: Wire #87a of the relay to the ignition switch on
Step 5: Wire #30 (common) to the positive buzzer side
Step 6: Install the relay behind the ignition switch
Relay Summary

What this accomplishes is in the off state of the switch, common (#30) is completing the circuit with Normally Closed (#87A). This enables the circuit between the buzzer and the 48V coming from the ignition to be complete.

Once the switch is activated, 12V will pass between #85 and #86 which will complete the circuit between common (#30) and Normally Open (#87). This will break the circuit between the 48V coming from the ignition to the buzzer, effectively reversing our switch to create “silent mode”.

Installing the Light Kits, Brush Guard and Powering the Switches

Materials Needed
Step 1: Place the cart in TOW
Step 2: Wire the spot light positives together

Using a butt connector wire the positive ends of the lights together. Wire a pigtail with a male spade connector to the other end of the butt connector.

Step 3: Wire the spot light negative together

Using a butt connector wire the negative ends of the lights together. Wire a pigtail with a female spade connector to the other end of the butt connector.

Step 4: Drill a hole in the front of the cowl

Drill a hole in the bottom of the cowl to allow the lights to be installed on the brush guard

Step 5: Install the ground and load wires for the spotlights

Run a length of 16ga wire from the negative bus to the cowl. Terminate with a male spade connector.

Run a length of 16ga wire from the switch to the cowl. Connect to spade #3 of the spotlight switch with a female spade connector. Terminate at the cowl with a male spade connector.

Step 6: Install the spotlights onto the brush guard

Using the existing holes, install the spotlights onto the brush guard.

Step 7: Install the brush guard

Remove the plastic bumper and use the hardware to install the brush guard

Step 8: Connect the spotlights

Pass the connections from the spotlights through the drilled hole in the cowl and connect.

Step 9: Connect the headlights

Using the existing wiring (or making new runs), connect the ground of the headlights to the negative bus bar.

Step 10: Run the Headlight Wiring

Using 14ga wire, run the positive wire from a 10amp fuse in the fuse box connected with a spade bit to the switches in the console. Using a male and female bullet connection, attach the positive wire to the single switch positive.

Using 14ga wire, run the negative from the negative bus to the negative side of the switch.

Step 11: Run the Spotlight and Buzzer Wiring

Using 14-16ga wire, run the positive wire from a 10amp fuse in the fuse box connected with a spade bit to the switches in the console. Using a male and female bullet connection, attach the positive wire to the daisy chain switch positive.

Using 14-16ga wire, run the negative from the negative bus to the negative side of the switch daisy chain.

Step 12: Try it Out!

Switch the cart from Tow to Run and try out your new switches!

Installing the Bow/Rifle Holder

Materials Needed
Step 1: Install the base at the correct width for your bow
Step 2: Adjust angle and tighten the holder

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