DIY: Build a Jig to Tie A Better Double Dropper Rig

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Improving On An Already Good Thing

The concept of a board to tie double-dropper rigs is not novel…I’ve seen several iterations, all with there own flare.

My motivation for my take on the dropper-rig board can be seen in the picture below:

What I Want In a Dropper Rig Board

As you can see, my original board is made of MDF and tacks. It’s given to bending the tacks, snagging your clothing or skin and difficult to store and transport.

My ideal board needs to provide the following:

Ease Of Transport

I need a board that can be easily and compactly stashed in the car for our long road trips to Florida. No bent nails and puncture wounds!

Versatility

Depending on the conditions, I experiment with different leader lengths and loop lengths. I want a board that can vary sizes of leaders produced.

Reinventing the Dropper Loop Board

It wasn’t until I articulated my ideas around this project to my wife that I got the inspiration needed. I was originally planning a concept using rare earth magnets and dowels when I remembered the mind teaser puzzles I played with while waiting for food at the Cracker Barrel.

The final design of this board is based on the game that uses golf tees to change the configuration of the puzzle. It will support dropper loops for the following loop and lead lengths:

Dropper Loop Size	Distance between Mainline, Loops and Sinker
2″	10″
3″	10″
4″	10″
5″	12″
6″	14″

Materials Needed

• 3/4” Plywood 28″ x 10″ (you’ll notice in pictures, I didn’t cut the board to size until I was happy with the arrangement)
• 3.25” Golf Tees
• 5/16” Grommets
• Digital Calipers (optional, but make it easier)

Step 1: Scribe A Line Lengthwise

Scribe a line across the bottom of the board (I used the width of a yard stick). This will serve as the first reference point for your measurements.

Step 2: Scribe a Perpendicular Line at the Midpoint

Find the midpoint of your horizontal line and scribe another perpendicular line. This will be your second point of reference.

Step 3: Measure Your First “Triangle”

The pegs of the board will be placed as equilateral triangles. The technique I’m going to demonstrate will prevent you from having to dust off your memory of the Pythagorean Theorem.

Just remember that the length of 1 side of your equilateral triangle will equal the length of your dropper loop. Since we are going to support from 2″ – 6″ dropper loops, you will measure half the distance of your dropper loop.

The picture above is me measuring for the 3″ dropper loop (I decided to add 2″ support later) so that is why the digital calipers read: 1.5″ (half of 3″).

Tip: Use Digital Calipers
You can use a ruler or tape to measure, but the benefit of the digital calipers is precision as well as the ability to use the share end to push into the pine board and make the hole location…its just faster and you are going to be marking a lot of holes!

Step 4: Mark the Remaining Triangle Bases

Using your calipers, continue to mark the remaining measurements for each dropper loop size. Again, the picture above doesn’t show the 2″ loop marks, but the measurements would be the following respectively: 1″, 1.5″, 2″, 2.5″, 3″….if you make the same marks on both sides of the midpoint, you will have loops of 2″, 3″, 4″, 5″, 6″.

Step 5: Mark the Remaining Triangle Bases

The next step is to mark the top of the triangle. Simply set the full length of desired loop and measure from one of the corresponding mark on the baseline to the scribed line.

The picture above shows the completion of the 3″ triangle.

Step 6: Complete Remaining Triangles

Complete Step 5 for each remaining triangle.

Step 7: Measure Distance for Fixed Post Points

From the 6″ marking on the baseline, measure out 1.5″ to mark the location for a post post. Repeat on the left-side of the baseline as well.

This location will be universally as an anchor point for all dropper loop sizes.

Step 8: Measure Termination Point Distance for 2″ Dropper Loop

I’ve already done the math to get the leader lengths described in the introduction. Holding a speed square to the board, measure 4.5″ between the fixed post point you marked in Step 7 flush with the speed square.

This point marks the termination point to always have 10″ of line between each loop, the sinker, or the end attached to your main line.

This is known, because the right-leader length is the distance from the left baseline point of the triangle and the termination point you just calculated. If you measure yourself, you will find 5.5in from the left-side to the fixed post point… you then need a point that is 4.5″ away to makeup the 10″.

Step 9: Measure the 3″ and 4″ and 5″ termination points

The 3″ and 4″ points can be measured by measuring .5″ back towards the baseline from the 2″ point you marked in Step 8.

The 5″ point, since the leader for the 5″ loop will be 12″, can be measured .5″ from the 2″ mark in Step 7, going away from the baseline.

Again, this can be easily confirmed by measuring from the left-side of the triangle in question to the termination point.

Once complete you will have a straight line of termination points.

Step 10: Mark the 6″ Loop Termination Point

Since the 6″ loop will have a 14″ leader, measure 1.5″ from the 5″ termination point you marked in Step 9.

Step 11: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Rather than use a 45 degree angle, offset the speed square on the left-side to give yourself more room to place the spool of line. The marks in the picture above were my original marks, but I opted to offest a bit and scribe a line.

Step 11: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Repeat the process from Steps 8 – 10 for the left-side of the board.

Step 12: Set Angle for Left-side Termination Points

Using a 11/64″ drill bit, drill out each hole on the board marked.

Tip: Go for the Tighter Fit
The 3/16″ inch drill bit is actually the perfect size for the tees, but with pine I find that over time the holes expand. To maintain the tight fit, I went down in hole size for a tighter fit.

Step 13: Drill a Hole for the Spool

Location doesn’t have to be precise, but drill a hole toward the top left of the board to hole the spool of line.

Step 14: Round Off the Board Edges

Smooth the edges using a 1/4″ roundover bit.

Step 15: Bisect End of Board

Find the center of the board edge and make a mark. This will be used to build a place to store the parts of the board when not in use.

Step 16: Measure Holes on Both Sides of Midpoint Mark

Measure 8 marks (9 if you drill the center mark).

Step 17: Drill Out Holes

Drill a small pilot hole for each mark and slowly step up to a 3/16″ bit being careful drill straight down (we want the extra room on these holes so the larger bit is needed).

Tip: Use A Standup Drill Press
Ideally, you would do this drilling with a standup drill press, but I unfortunately don’t have one with enough clearance so hand-drilled.

Step 18: Burn Key onto Back of Board

With all those holes, I figured a key was in order. I came up with a unique mark for each combination and burned it into the back for reference.

Tip: Write In Pencil First
I found it easier to write in pencil what I plan to burn into the wood and then trace it with the wood burner.

Step 19: Transfer Key Symbols to the Board

Use the symbols in the key to mark the holes to use with the preferred dropper loop size.

Step 20: Add a Finish

Stain (I used Golden Oak) and seal with 3 coats of polyurethane.

The Finished Product

How To Use It

Step 1: Install the Spool

Step 2: Install the Line Holder

Step 3: Install the Fixed Posts

Step 4: Setup Triangle for the Desired Size

Step 5: Tie a Figure Eight Knot (Used for Sinker Attachment)

Step 6: Wrap Around the Jig and Anchor at Knot

Step 7: Twist Base of Triangle Six Times

Step 8: Remove Line From Top of Triangle and Push Through Center of Twist

Step 9: Return Line to Post and Tighten By Pulling Out

Step 10: Re-thread Jig and Anchore at Loop from Step 9

Step 11: Tie Another Loop Using Steps 7 – 9

Step 12: Cut Line at Left-side Termination Point

Step 13: Tie A Perfection Loop for Attaching to Main Line