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DIY: Trick Out An Aluminum Pull Cart for Fishing the Surf

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Not Starting from Scratch

I recently came upon a Reels On Wheels manufactured surf fishing cart that needed a little TLC. Some of the welds were cracked and it didn’t quite fit my needs for fishing in the surf.

DIY: Adding Tackle Storage to your Cart
Learn how to add additional tackle storage rigging once you finish your cart build Learn How

This post details how I went about transforming a modest entry-level cart into the perfect cart for navigating the surf.

Before the Transformation

I should add that many modifications include parts I happen to have lying around the garage such as GeatTracs and kayak cordage management accessories. Where appropriate, I try to call out alternative tips if you are starting without access to these accessories.

Today’s post is going to focus on making the following modifications to expand the capabilities of the cart:

How To Build It

Fixing the Frame

Materials Needed

  • 1″ Aluminum Square Tube
  • 1/2″ x .081″ Expanded Aluminum

Step 1: Repair the Cracked Welds

Nothing too dramatic here…I cranked up the heat on my spool gun and repaired each crack with a brand new weld.

Step 2: Add Bracing for the Cooler Expanded Aluminum

My cooler of choice in the surf is a smaller, Ozark Trails cooler I bought on clearance from Wal-mart. To allow it to sit on the cart without tilting to the side, I added some 1″ square tube to the frame to support the expanded aluminum the cooler will sit on.

One welded, the other clamped in place

Step 3: Cope One Corner of the Expanded Aluminum

Using the top as a template, cope one corner of the expanded aluminum, being careful to center the long-side of the aluminum for later welding.

Fitting the Expanded Aluminum
Cope the Corner Using Straight Snips

Step 4: Cut the Aluminum to Fit the Frame

Being mindful of leaving yourself plenty of room to weld, cut out the shape of the expanded aluminum.

Tip: Use the Right Tool
Aluminum is not difficult to cut…for coping cuts, snips are useful. For long cuts, such as cutting the long-side of the expanded metal, I used an angle grinder with a cutting disc.

Carefully maneuver the aluminum onto the bottom of the part and cut spaces for any screws that should remain accessible for the axle.

Step 5: Weld the Expanded Aluminum to the Frame

Using a spool gun or TIG, work your way from one corner of the cart to the other, taking care not to burn through the frame or expanded metal.

Tip: Can’t Weld It? Braze It
If you don’t have access or the skills to weld aluminum, nearly every modification to the frame can be brazed with a torch, Alumaweld (available at Harbor Freight) and some patience.

Increasing Rod Capacity

Materials Needed

  • Aluminum Round Tube (2”, 1/8” wall)
  • Plasti-Dip

Step 1: Cut Rod Tubes

Cut four 11” lengths of aluminum tube to serve as the additional rod tubes. I used 1/8″ aluminum tube as that is the thinnest wall available at my local steel yard, but the thinner the better…I want to keep the overall cart weight as low as possible.

Step 2: Remove Burrs

Using a hand file, remove all burrs from the top and bottom of the tubes. You can use a grinder, but the aluminum is so soft, its easy to knock out with a file.

Step 3: Add Rod Stops

Cut a scrap of aluminum to weld to the bottom of each tube for a rod stop. I happened to have some scraps from the Flounder Light project that fit the bill.

Tip: Lose the Welder
Though I chose to weld using a spool gun, with some stainless hardware, all modifications can be made without the need to weld aluminum.

Cut them a bit big and tap in with a hammer so snug
Tack in place

Step 4: Protect the Rods

This is what you see executed in pictures, but in hindsight, I would save the dipping to the end. It is too hard to protect the Plasti-dipped parts when welding the rod holders onto the cart. I ended up removing all the plasti-dip and starting over once the rod holders were in place.

Step 5: Attach the Holders

Clamp and weld each tube to the cart.

Step 6: Now, Protect the Rods

Suspend the cart upside down and dip the top of each rod holder into well mixed Plasti-dip. Repeat three times letting it cure for thirty minutes between coats.

Adding Accessory Track

Materials Needed

  • 1.5″ 10-32 Stainless Bolts (4)
  • YakAttack GearTrac
  • Aluminum Plate (or) Starboard/Cutting Board

Step 1: Cut Material for Backing Plate

I chose to use some scrap aluminum, but you could also use starboard/cutting board. You just needs non-rustable material to sandwich the rail the GearTrac will attach to.

Step 2: Drill and Tap Holes for GearTrac

Using the GearTrac as a template, drill and tap 10-32 holes in the backing plate.

Step 3: Remove Sharp Edges

Using an angle grinder, round off the edges and remove any burr.

Step 4: Attach to the Cart

Sandwich the rail in between the GearTrac and the backing plate and secure with screws.

Building A Bait Cutting Station

Materials Needed

Step 1: Drill Hole for Mighty Bolt

Find the center of the cutting board and drill 1/4” hole.

Tip: Shop Commercial
Buy your cutting boards at a restaurant supply store….the quality will be better and many times it’s actually cheaper!

Step 2: Level board with Rail

Using extra starboard (or another shim material), attach material to the back of the cutting board to allow the unattached end to sit level with the end attached to the GearTrac.

I chose to both screw with 5/8” screws and fasten with marine epoxy.

Step 3: Create Channel for the Rail

To discourage the board from sliding, fasten extra starboard to create a channel to prevent side to side movement of the board.

Step 4: Attach the Board

Slide the Mighty Bolt into the GearTrac and tighten down with a stainless wing nut.

Adding Shock Cord for Securing Gear

Materials Needed

Step 1: Increase Hole Size of Bungee Deck Fittings

I opted to use pop rivets to install my bungee deck fittings, as I didn’t want my gear getting caught on exposed interior nuts when putting items into the cart. To accomodate this, I had to widen the bungee deck fittings using a 1″ drill bit to allow the rivet gun to push against the rivet.

Don’t drill all the way through…set your drill press stop so you only widen the larger outer hole.

Step 2: Drill a Hole for the Pop Rivet

Using a 3/16″ bit, mark your holes for the bungee decking. You will need 2 on each side at the same locations to properly weave the shock cord. Drill your hole

I chose to place two right at the bend of the rear of the cart and two between the front rod holders. 0

Locations for the Bungee Decking

I had to add washers to the interior of the bungee decking because the only rivets I had on hand were too long but I didn’t want to buy more.

Optionally adding washers to allow the use of the longer rivets I had on hand

Step 3: Rivet the Bungee Decking in Place

Using a rivet gun, firmly attach the bungee decking.

Step 4: Attach the First End of the Shock Cord

Thread one end of the shock cord through the bungee attachment on the left rear of the cart.

Step 5: Tie the 2nd End of the Shock Cord

Its easiest to thread the entire shock cord or give yourself a lot of slack to work with here. Tie another end in the same fashion as you did on the left-side. This will leave you with a big loop that you can then twist once and fit into the top bungee eyes.

Leave a bit of slack so you can adjust the cordage to the load.

Once complete, you have some very secure bungees for holding things in place.

Top View
Side View of Attachment Points

Rather than threaded and knotted, the front bungee fitting are used to slide the cord under for quick attachment.

Adding Balloon Tires

I chose to add balloon tires to accommodate my most common fishing scenario, fishing on the beach sand. I’m keeping the other set of wheels to swap out should I choose to fish the pier in the future.

Materials Needed

Step 1: Remove the Stock Wheels

Remove the stock set of wheels by removing the nylon lock nuts and retain the hardware.

Step 2: Measure Anticipated Rod Length

I buy my aluminum in long lengths that can be tough to work with at times. The initial length of the 5/8″ rod was twelve feet. To have something easier to work with, I roughed out the dimensions of the wheelbase I wanted, ensuring the balloon tires wouldn’t rub, and cut the rod to that length. In my case that was 34″, which would give me some excess to cut off in the end.

Step 3: Drill the First Retaining Pin Hole

My original set of wheels came with aluminum washers and retaining pins I chose to repurpose between the two sets. Since I will be working from right to left building the axle, I went ahead and drilled the pin for the first retaining clip on one end of the 5/8″ rod. The required a 3/16″ bit to match my retaining pins.

Step 4: Measure and Cut Your Spacers to Length

To prevent the wheels from rubbing the frame, you will need to add a spacer between the wheel and the frame. I waffled on what to use for my spacers, but I wanted to use something cost-effective and easily found for anyone building their own axle.

After exploring multiple corrosion-proof materials, I found that 3/4″ PEX had the approximate diameter for a fairly snug spacer. I cut two 3/4″ spacers from the PEX.

Step 5: Assemble First Side

Test fit your axle using the following order: Frame/Stock Washer/Spacer/Bushing/Wheel/Bushing/Stock Washer/Pin

Step 6: Drill Retaining Pin Hole for Other Side

Test fit the axle by attaching it with one wheel in place with the u-bolts included. Once secured, mark where your hole will need to be for the remaining retaining pin and drill.

Step 7: Cut Rod to Length

With the other hole drilled, cut the rod to length.

Step 8: Attach the Balloon Wheels

With everything measure, install both wheels using the following order: Frame/Stock Washer/Spacer/Bushing/Wheel/Bushing/Stock Washer/Pin

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