DIY: Weld Kayak Carrier J-Hooks on a Golf Cart/ATV/Hunting Buggy Utility Trailer

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My wife hates riding in my truck. With 3 growing kids, its just getting more difficult to travel longer distances for a family trip and bring the golf cart and the kayaks…not to mention its a bear getting them on my Thule XSporter.

For that reason (and for the upcoming sand bass spawn), I wanted to design some removable J-Hooks that can be added to the rails of my 5.5′ x 10′ utility trailer.

The initial design consists of a J-Hook welded from 3/4″ x 3/4″ square tube and covered with pool noodle.

Materials Needed

• 3/4″ x 3/4″ 14ga Square Tube
• 1″x1″ 1/8″ Angle Iron
• 2″ 1/8″ Flat Bar
• Pool Noodle
• 3/8″ x 3.5″ Hex Bolts (8)
• 3/8 Washers (16)
• 3/8 Nylock Nuts (8)
• Black Spray Bedliner

Step 1: Cut All Your Component Miters

There will be several angled cuts to form the J-Hook. The dimensions used ensure that the J-Hooks are aligned with the width of the wheel well. This is key for me as I don’t want the J-Hooks extending any further than the current width of the trailer.

Make the following cuts from the square tube for a set of J-Hooks:

• 2′ length mitered to 45deg on one end (4)
• 1′ 3/4″ length mitered to 45 deg on one end and 60deg on the other end (4)
• 3″ length mitered to 60deg one end (4)
• 3″ length cut off square (4)

Step 2: Weld the Initial Frame of the J-Hook

Weld the 2′ mitered length firmly to a 1′ 3/4″ length of square tube also cut at a 45deg angle to create an “L” shape.

You will need to make four of these for one set of carriers.

Step 3: Weld the Flared Arms of the J-Hook

Weld the 60deg end of the 1′ 3/4″ piece to the 3″ mitered piece on all four arms.

Step 4: Add Spacers

Cut and weld two 3″ square tube spacer between two J-hooks.

Step 5: Cut and Drill Holes in Angle Iron Brackets

Cut four 7.5″ lengths of 1.5″ angle iron. Drill a 3/8″ hole that is 3/4″ from the edge of each overhang.

Step 6: Weld First Angle Iron Top Bracket to J-Hook

Measure 4.5″ from the back of the J-Hook and scribe a line. Position the flat-side of the angle iron at the scribe line, perpendicular to the J-Hook with 1.5″ of overhang on each side. Weld securely.

Step 7: Weld the Second Angle Iron Top Bracket

Position the J-hook firmly on the trailer and clamp the second angle iron bracket securely. Weld in place to ensure a tight fit.

Step 8: Cut and Drill the Bottom Bracket

Cut four 5.5″ lengths of 2″ 1/8″ flatbar. Mark and drill a 3/8″ hole 3/4″ from each end of the bracket and 1″ from the long-side of the bracket.

Step 9: Round All Sharp Corners

Using an angle grinder, round all sharp corners of the top and bottom brackets.

Step 10: Paint It

Using black bedliner spray, thoroughly coat all exposed steel on the bracket to protect from rust.

Step 11: Install Square Tube End Caps

Install 3/4″ end caps into the open sections of square tube.

Step 12: Add the Pool Noodle

Cut a 21.5″ length of pool noodle. Vertically slice and attach to the long uprights of the rack. Secure it by heating the noodle with a heat gun and pressing the cut ends together.

Cut an 11″ length of noodle and press it over the bottom of the frame.

Step 13: Secure to Frame

Position the bracket over the square tube rail and place a washer and 3/8″ bolt through the angle iron. Position a flat bar bracket perpendicular to the rail and place the bolt through it.

Add another lock washer and nylock nut. Repeat until all four bolts are installed and secure.