DIY: Turn A 50 Gallon Barrel Into A Mobile Water System for Food Plotting

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Food plotting on a remote property offers quite a few challenges. One challenge I’ve had is moving water around for various projects on remote locations of the property e.g. mixing herbicide, managing hot spots when burning off duff in a field, or mixing concrete

Piggy-backing on my solution for bringing in water (see Designing an Off-grid Water System), I’ve outlined how to use a transfer pump and a blue barrel to haul a water system around the property.

Materials Needed

• 12V Transfer Pump
• 12V 18Ah Battery
• 3/4″ PVC
• 3/4-in Push Fitting x 3/4-in Threaded Adapter
• 3/4-in x 3/4-in 90-Degree Elbow PVC Elbow
• 3/4-in Threaded Drip Irrigation Female Adapter
• 3/4 Inch Garden Hose Fitting Quick Connector Male and Female Set
• Teflon Tape
• 1″ Panhead 1/4″ 20 Stainless Screws (2)
• 1/4-20 Stainless Nyloc Nuts (2)
• 1/4-20 Stainless Butterfly Nuts (2)
• 14″ x 3″ Piece of 1/2″ Plywood or Starboard

Step 1: Mark and Drill Holes for the Pump

Using the pump as a template, mark each hole that will anchor the pump to the lid of the barrel. In my case, a 1/4″ bit was the size needed for anchoring the pump.

Thread the stainless screws from the bottom of the lid and secure with a nyloc nut.

Step 2: Attach the Drip Irrigation Female Adapter

On the intake-side of the pump, attach the Drip Irrigation Female adapter to the pump. The garden hose threaded end will have a rubber washer so no need for teflon tape.

Step 3: Attach the 3/4″ Threaded PVC Adapter

The other end of the Drip Irrigation Female Adapter is threaded to receive 3/4 threaded PVC. Wrap the threads in teflon tape, and secure.

Step 4: Drill the Anchoring “Plate”

Since I wanted to leave the stainless hardware in the lid to easily add/remove the pump when necessary, I needed to add a “plate” to allow the pump to sit level (without teetering back and forth on the bolts). The plate also serves to spread the stress of the pump across a greater service area.

To build the plate, mark the location of the holes on a pieces of wood or starboard (think cutting board) and drill 1″ holes that will easily slide over the nyloc nuts.

The 1″ bolt should give enough clearance to still anchor the pump with a pair of butterfly nuts. I went with stainless to avoid rust.

Step 5: Cut A 1″ Hole in the Lid

To draw water from the barrel, drill a 1″ hole towards the outer rim of the barrel lid. A spade bit will work, but a step bit will make a cleaner hole.

Step 6: Cut a 35″ Length of 3/4″ Pipe

If using a 1/2″ piece of plywood for your “plate”, you’ll need about a 35″ pipe to reach the bottom of the barrel.

Attach the 90 degree push fitting to one end of the PVC.

Cut the other end of the PVC at a 45 degree angle to prevent it from suctioning to the bottom of the barrel.

Step 7: Cut the Adjoining Pipe to the Pump

Insert the suction pipe and measure the distance from the interior seat of the slip-end of the PVC adapter to the interior seat of the 90 degree elbow.

Cut the length of 3/4″ PVC needed.

Step 8: Insert and Glue Adjoining Pipe

Insert the 90 degree elbow.

Glue the slip end attached to the pump.

Step 9: Connect to a 12V Battery

At this point, everything is in place…simply connect to 12volts and your pump is ready to go.

Step 10: Attach the Quick Connect to the Pump (optional)

I prefer to use a quick connect so I can move quickly and not run the risk of loosening any of the teflon connections (and not having a wrench handy to tighten them).

Conclusion

So far this system has been a lifesaver as winter has turned to spring. Having water at the ready not only makes for easier food plotting, but it also opens up a few more opportunities for prescribed fire.