DIY: Convert Low-Quality Habitat Into A Food Plot

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If you have followed Grant Woods and GrowingDeer.tv, you’ve likely heard him touting the benefits of “The Release Process” and no-till food plots. I’ve fully embraced his techniques, but some of the equipment he uses e.g. crimpers, no-till drills are still well out of my price range.

This post covers how we have applied his advice successfully in freeing up some of our low-quality, closed-canopy forest and turned it into a destination food source for deer.

We have several hidey hole food plots, but this past hunting season, we added a new one, targeting an already traveled corridor that had previously been a small clearing, but was choked with cedar, sweet gum and winged elm trees.

This entire food plot was cleared and planted using equipment accessible to nearly anyone who does their own yard work.

Materials Needed

• Husqvarna 455 Chainsaw
• Husqvarna 128LD Weed Eater
• Husqvarna 360BT Backpack Blower
• Chapin 25-Pound Bag Seeder
• 13-13-13 Fertilizer
• Pelletized Lime

Step 1: Finding A Location

When it comes to determining a location, I typically start with the downloaded version of Google Earth. Google Earth affords you the ability go back many years of maps.

First and foremost, I’m looking for places that will become stopping points for deer. Second, I’m looking for places that I have the ability to clear using only a chainsaw.

Overgrown pastures and clearings are great as 1) the trees will be smaller and 2) red cedars typically are the first to come up in a clearing so you can kill two birds with one stone by replacing low quality trees with higher quality forage.

Step 2: Map Out A Plan

Once I have some locations picked out, its best to get off the computer and get outside. HuntStand affords the ability to map as you walk, but I mark out my food plot on the computer app or using a handheld GPS unit (since I elect to not carry a smart phone).

Marking out the plot area is a critical step as it will allow you to see the amount of acreage that you will need to prep and seed.

Step 3: Strategize Entry, Exit and Huntable Trees

I primarily bow hunt which means getting close and typically in a tree. Before I fell a single tree, I walk the area thinking about entry, exit, and locations that can support a stand or my saddle.

I also make a habit of identifying ground blind locations for younger and older folks wishing to hunt.

Step 4: Fell the Non-strategic Trees

With a plan firmly in mind, I try to make a habit of flagging any trees I want to keep. Once you get going with a chainsaw, its easier than you think to take out a tree you meant to keep.

With the keepers flagged and the perimeter of the plot identified, I set out slowly taking out the cedars, elms, and sweet gums that typically sprout up on our property.

Step 4: Prevent Stump Sprouting

To prevent stumps resprouting, we take a sponge brush and glyphosate/Arsenal and paint the outside edges of the stump.

According to Grant, there is no need to do this with the cedars as long as you cut below the lowest branch.

Step 5: Remove Weeds and Undergrowth

The success of the plot is going depend on getting good seed/soil contact. This often requires removing the duff and pine needles underneath the recently fell tree canopy.

You can do this with prescribed fire if you are trained in what you are doing, but we often opt to weed-eat the undergrowth to the dirt and blow the duff out with a good blower. We only do this on a new plot as in the future, you can over seed and then kill off the previous crop with glyphosate then lay the dead growth over the new seed (often referred to as throw and mow.

DIY Build A Boomless Sprayer:
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Step 5: Hang Your Stands

Be sure to hang your stands as early as possible cutting your shooting lanes and clearing a quiet path through the brush to your ladder or entrance.

Step 6: Perform A Soil Test

Once you’ve cleared the plot, its important to perform a soil test to understand how to supplement your plot.

We send soil samples to Water Agricultural Laboratories describing the seed we plan to plant in each plot.

Depending on the level of analysis required, WatersAg will send you a detailed report of how you need to the supplement the soil.

Step 7: Adjust the Soil pH and Nutrients

The results of the soil test will give you specific instructions on what nutrients to add into the soil.

Both lime and potash can be had at your local farm supply. Pulverized lime is cheaper, but given the small size of our plots, we use pelletized lime.

Step 8: Spread Your Seed

Wait for rain in the forecast and broadcast your seed. With broadcasting, be sure to broadcast at a higher rate…Grant suggest at twice the suggested rate.

For winter plots that serve as hidey holes, we opt for a brassica blend at 100lbs/acre. We’ve had great luck getting a decent plot and brassicas do well when broadcast.